Went to St. Peter’s with the Countess Scarowska^[*^] to see the pope perform high mass […]

The emperor and the King of Sweden, who had arrived the night before, were both there. There was a gallery prepared for them, but they did not choose to make use of it, and stood together against one of the pillars of the great baldequin facing the pope’s throne. The emperor’s deportment was the most serious and respectful that can be imagined; he spoke very little, was attentive to what was going on, knelt when the rest of the people knelt, crossed himself twice, and had every external mark of decent devotion. The King of Sweden talked a great deal, was more eager to see every part of the show, knelt more awkwardly, and bowed less low. It is impossible for me to remember in their order, or attempt to describe, the various manoeuvres of the grandest and best-acted pantomime that can be imagined. The pope, after he had had a robe of some sort of light white silver tissue and several other habiliments put upon him in the chair on one side, and a mitre (exactly like one of gilt paper) upon his head, went up to his throne, his train borne by four prelates. Here he chanted a part of the service in a very audible voice, one man, upon his knees, supporting the book before him; another, kneeling (though it is broad daylight), holding a large lighted taper; a third standing by to prompt him, in case his infallibility should go wrong; and a fourth to turn the leaves of the book, for he is allowed to do no one thing for himself. His mitre is taken off his head always before he begins to pray or read, and replaced when he has done. His petticoats are settled about his feet every time he gets up or sits down; his gloves are pulled off and put on for him; and when he held out his hands to give a blessing, the sleeve of his robe was held out of his way […]

Three times in the course of the ceremony the pope washed his hands. Water was brought him in a gold basin, covered with a white satin mantle, and preceded by two people with maces in their hands, and followed by two more with napkins. After chanting and praying by turns several times, and performing various other ceremonies, he went to the altar, elevated the host, and took the sacrament himself […]