Went at three o'clock to Monte Testaccio to see the Saturnalia of Modern Rome in the month of October. They eat and drink every day at all sorts of cabarets, which are open and inhabited only in this month. Thursdays and Sundays there is always a crowd and dancing there. These dances are worth seeing, though the dancers are often dirty, and rarely pretty; they have a grace in the management of their apron or of their handkerchief, which they hold out displayed like a piece of drapery, which is quite remarkable, and which strongly reminds one of the ancient bas-relievos. The music, which is a sort of guitar or lute, with a fife, is monotonous, but lively and dansant, and keeping time with great exactness.