In company with four others I visit the historical and ancient city of Baghdad this afternoon… We visited the Maude Hotel. I suppose about a week ago it was known as the Kemal or Enver Hotel (wonderful diplomacy). We paid 4 rupees each for dinner. First course was Irish stew, backed up by one unforgettable and unbeatable pancake for second course. A large jug of pure unadulterated, unchlorinated Tigris water was flanked by an orange… In our wanderings after the feast ... we entered one street [and] in a two-storied house with a large balcony we heard familiar tunes being played on a mandolin. At intervals a not unmusical mouth organ joined issue. We remarked ‘Hello, there are some of our fellows up there.’ On backing to the opposite side of the street to get a better field of view, we discovered they were ‘scaly backs’ (Navy men) in a very hilarious mood and dancing the Mazurka with four of Baghdad’s choicest beauties. ‘Lucky fellows’, commented we, ‘you’ve been drinking something stronger than muddy Tigris water from Kemal Pasha glasses.’ Etiquette forbade us to intrude on the happiness, merriment and delights of the Senior Service. << less